While living in Canada you are likely to experience snowy days in the winter.  With snow comes extra preparation and care to protect your furry friend. Just as us humans need to use caution in cold weather for ourselves, so too do we need to for our pets.  Just because it is snowing outside does not mean we can neglect our dogs’ needs for exercise. You can continue to take your dogs for walks outside in the snow, you just need to be prepared and take extra safety precautions. The following is a list of tips to follow that will help you to care for your dog when taking walks in the snow.

Ways to Protect your Dog when Walking in the Snow:

1. Protect your dog’s delicate feet with doggie boots.
2. Use paw protection balm such as Musher’s Secret.
3. Trim nails for better traction.
4. Keep hair between paw pads trimmed short during the winter months to prevent discomfort due to the formation of ice balls in this area on a hairy dog.
5. Prevent your dog from pulling. Pulling increases the risk of fall related injuries especially when the roads and sidewalks may be slippery with ice.
6. Limit time outdoors. This is especially important for short-haired breeds.
7. Short-haired breeds may benefit from use of a sweater.
8. Stick to snow covered areas whenever possible versus melted snow areas covered in salt. Salt grit can be harmful to your dog’s paws as it contains chemicals which can produce burns on paws with prolonged contact.
9. Avoid areas with frozen bodies of water. The weight of your dog may cause a potential break in thin ice and risk him falling through.
10. Pay attention to signs that your dog is getting cold such as shivering or lifting paws. Head back home as soon as possible to prevent cold related illnesses.
11. Lifting a paw or limping may be due to discomfort from chemical irritation to his paws from the salt. Wipe off your dog’s paw pads and remove any ice balls that may cause discomfort.
12. Wash or wipe your dog’s paws down thoroughly after a walk to get rid of salts.
13. If it feels too cold out for you, then it is probably too cold out for your dog!

Now that you know some useful tips for keeping your dog safe in the snow get out there and have some fun in it!

The post Tips for Walking your Dog in the Snow appeared first on Good Heels Dog Walking.

As a pet lover you don’t always want to leave your dog at home when you go on vacation, you often want your dog to join you. Whether it be to take a road trip involving dog friendly excursions like camping or hiking, travelling by plane to visit family in another province, or just simply because you can’t bear to leave the furry member of your family with someone else while you are away.

Deciding whether or not to bring your dog travelling isn’t always an easy decision and can sometimes be very stressful. If you do decide to travel with your dog it is important to plan ahead, do your research and make sure you have everything organized in order to make the trip go more smoothly. To give you some help I have outlined two of the major modes of travel you would be using when travelling with a dog, air and car, and what you need to know for each before you travel.

Air Travel

What you need to know before flying with your dog

• Check with the airline for any age restrictions for pets. Young puppies are not allowed on most airlines.
• Always make sure, before your book your flight, that the airline you decide to book with allows dogs of your dog’s size. Some airlines do not take pets at all, some only small pets in the cabin and some only in checked baggage. Other airlines accept pets in both the cabin and the checked baggage but size determines where they are kept on the flight.
• Call to confirm there is availability for your dog on your preferred flight before booking your own flights. I find it is easiest to just call and book everything together on the phone.
• If you are visiting another country make sure you look into if there is any restrictions for travelling with a dog.
• Be aware if there is any specific vaccinations needed for bringing a dog to the travel destination. Book a vet appointment and make sure your dog has all vaccinations prior to travel.
• Look into any bugs, eg. ticks, that may be in the area you are travelling to that may be different from your home town. You may need a different medication to protect your dog at your destination. Talk to your vet.
• Make sure you look into any restrictions for the time of year you plan to travel. Some airlines, eg.  West Jet and Air Canada, restrict travel during the winter holiday season in mid December until mid January. Some American airlines have restrictions in the summer time. These restrictions usually only apply to checked pets.
• Look for any restrictions on size of crate or the type of crate needed for travelling with a dog.

How to prepare for the flight

Preparing the crate

-This is only a guide, make sure you check airline specific kennel requirements. See the links above for West Jet and Air Canada requirements.

Outside of the crate:

• Most airlines require that your pet carrier be hard sided. It cannot be soft or collapsible.
• The carrier must be the proper size. Your carrier must be large enough to allow your dog to stand, turn around and lie down comfortably.
• Typically you will need stickers on the crate with directional arrows pointing to which way is up, your dog’s name as well as “live animal”. Live animal stickers and directional stickers are usually supplied at the airport. I like to have them on the crate before I get to the airport just in case they don’t have them or I am short on time when I get there. I make mine by placing a a piece of duct tape on the crate with the words written in black permanent marker. Nothing fancy, but it does the trick.
• You also want to make sure that your crate has some form of handles so the airport employee is able to transport it easily.
• Make sure the top and bottom pieces are safely secured down. Usually there is spots for nuts and bolts if they aren’t already on the crate.

Inside the crate:

• You must have food and water bowls in the crate but most airlines state that they must be emptied for your dog’s comfort and safety.
• You must line the crate with absorbent material, eg. towel. If your dog is still a puppy or if the flight is long and he may have an accident, it isn’t a bad idea to also have a pee pad under the towel.
• Toys and any food or treats are typically not allowed in the crate.
• For your dog’s safety I recommend only leaving your dog’s collar on him and keeping his harness and leash with you in your carry-on.

Preparing your dog

• Make sure your dog is up to date on all required vaccinations
• It is important to crate train your dog a least a few days before you leave for your trip. If your dog already regularly uses his crate this isn’t necessary since he would already be comfortable in it. If your dog doesn’t typically use his crate, or hasn’t in awhile, it is a good idea to get him used to being in it. Throw treats, food, or a kong with peanut butter in the crate and have your dog stay in there for a specific amount of time. Gradually build up the time he is in the crate for so he is used to being in it longer periods of time.
• It may also be a good idea to take a few drives with your dog in the crate in the car. This will help to prevent any travel nausea and also help your dog get used to being in the crate in the car. This is helpful  if you do plan to take a taxi to the airport.
• If you know your dog has anxiety, motion sickness, or if you are at all worried about your dog being fearful on the flight I would speak to your vet in regards to anxiety meds or the use of over-the-counter meds such as Benadryl to calm your dog down and make the flight less stressful on him.

What to bring

• Pack any travel documents as needed for the specific airline and destination location. I pack these in my purse or carry-on so they are handy for check-in.
• Bring any documents with your dog’s medical history, vaccinations, proof of rabies vaccination, proof of ownership and dog license paperwork.
• Leash, harness, collar-with ID tags/license
• Dog food for the time you will be away (check first to make sure you are allowed to bring that specific protein source to the place you are travelling to. If you aren’t allowed to bring your dog’s food you will need to check to see if any store carries it there).
• Treats (check to make sure the treats you plan to bring are allowed to be brought into your destination)
• Your dog’s food and water bowls and travel bowls if needed for excursions.
• Any other options for anxiety, eg. calming pheromone spray, thunder vest, or a towel that you have used and has your smell.
• Paw pad protection, eg.Musher’s Secret, for snow/cold weather or if you will be hiking on trails.
• Rain coat or winter coat and winter paw covers depending on the season/weather.
• Pet first aid kit
• Your dog’s grooming equipment ie. brush, comb, shampoo/conditioner depending how long you will be away for.
• Toys
• Poo bags
• Flea/tick meds as needed

Before you leave for the airport

• It is best to pre-book taxi a day before your flight or earlier on the day of. I have used Yellow Cab in Vancouver several times and they have been great. Just call, use the app or online booking and make a note that you have a dog with you, your preference as to if he will be in the crate (if you have a preference), size of dog and size of crate.
• Some cab drivers have issues with dogs being out of the crate in the cab. Some cab drivers are ok with dogs out of the crate as long as they are well behaved, stay in the back seat area on the floor or on your lap, and if they don’t shed. If you don’t have a preference then the crate is a safe bet.
• Most airlines state that you should feed your dog within four hours of the flight. I usually feed mine as close to the flight as I can especially for flights 4 hr or longer since he will likely be in his cage for at least 6 hrs. If you know your dog gets car sick I wouldn’t recommend feeding him right before the cab ride. I would recommend taking your dog on a long walk or run for some tiring exercise before leaving home the day of the flight.

At the Airport

• Check your specific airline for when to arrive at the airport to check in. Usually for domestic flights you need to have your dog at the check-in counter 2 hours prior to flight. They usually only let you leave your dog at the oversized baggage 1.5 hrs prior to departure. You will need to be at check-in counter earlier for international flights.
• I would suggest taking your dog on a small walk at the airport once you have checked in since you usually have some time to kill before they will take your dog in baggage. This will give your dog one last chance for pee or poo before departure.
• Some airports have signs on the door saying “keep your pet in the crate at all times in the airport” but most are actually pretty easy going on this and let you take your dog out of the crate on a leash.
• When you leave your dog at the oversized baggage my suggestion for an anxious dog is to face his crate away from you when he is in it. If your dog can’t see you then he can’t see you walk away. This will help to prevent any whining when you leave him to go through security.

Car Travel

Preparations for car travel:

• Just as in air travel, you want to make sure your dog is up to date on all vaccinations
• If you are travelling in the summer it is a good idea to ask your vet if your dog is protected with his current medications from the type of ticks in the destination area. If your dog isn’t on any tick or flea meds it is best to put him on one.
• Train your dog to get used to travelling in the car.
• If you plan to have your dog in a crate: If you rarely take your dog in the car or if it is your dog’s first car trip I would crate train your dog first to using the crate as needed and then crate him several times in the car gradually increasing the duration of the car trip. This will hopefully help prevent fear of car rides as well as car motion sickness.
• If you plan to keep your dog out of a crate: Gradually take your dog for longer and longer car rides building up to the trip.
• If you don’t already have one, invest in a car seat mat or blanket to protect your car interior from any dirt, water or scratches if you will have your dog out of crate in your car. For safety make sure you also use a dog seatbelt harness.
• On the day of travel make sure your dog eats awhile before he gets into the car to prevent throwing up his food if nauseous.
• Make sure to feed your dog water before the trip.
• Be sure to give your dog time to pee and poo as necessary prior to the car trip.

What to bring with you

• Vaccination info, rabies certificate, license and any other pet documents you may need for the travel destination-do your research in advance.
• Depending where you are going you may need your dog’s food and water bowls or travel bowls.
• Pet first aid kit
• Your dog’s regular medication.
• Flea/tick meds as needed.
• Dog grooming equipment-brush, comb, shampoo and conditioner depending on how long you are going to be away.
• Food and treats as needed for the time duration you are going. If you are travelling outside of your home country make sure that you are permitted to bring the food your dog eats to that country as sometimes there is specific restrictions on type of meat source.
• Toys
• Leash, collar-with ID tags/license, harness
• Poo bags
• Towel for drying off your dog if you will be in and out of the car and it is raining or snowing.
• Paw pad protection, eg.Musher’s Secret, for snow, cold weather or if you will be hiking on trails.
• Rain coat or winter coat depending on the season and the weather.
• Blankets or dog bed
• Drinking water

On the Road

• Don’t leave your dog in your car for any reason if it is hot out.
• Stop for pee and poo breaks.
• Stop for some exercise or play if it is a long trip.
• Make sure you look back at your dog often to make sure he is ok and give him some pats for comfort.

I hope this information will help you to be better prepared for travelling with a dog. The more aware you are of the requirements of your travel destination and the more prepared you are in your packing, the less stressful your trip will be and the more you will enjoy travelling with your dog.

The post Travelling with a Dog appeared first on Good Heels Dog Walking.

Ways You Can Help Keep Your Dog Safe This Summer:

1) Exercise early in the morning or late evening

• Exercise more during the cooler hours in the day and less at peak heat times in the middle of the afternoon.

2) Limit the duration and intensity of your dog’s exercise in the hot summer months.

• Break your exercise time down into more shorter sessions throughout the day
• Avoid running with your dog on very hot days
• Decrease your pace as your dog may get tired more quickly

3) Take more rest breaks in the shade to allow your dog to cool down.

• Take lots of breaks from the sun to prevent your dog from overheating
• Give your dog’s paws a break from the warm sidewalk or path by standing or sitting in the cool shaded grass.

4) Take frequent water breaks to prevent dehydration.

• Be sure to bring a full water bottle on your walk or walk your dog in a park that has dog water stations.
• Make sure you frequently stop to offer your dog water

5) Take your dog for walks in places that have a lake, pond or pool to cool off in.

• If there are off-leash beaches or parks with pools or ponds for dogs in your city these are great places to visit in the summer. Your dog will enjoy his or her time with other dog friends and also be able to cool off in the water when he or she gets hot.

Dog in photo is at Charleson Park waterfall in Vancouver

6) Never leave your pet unattended in a vehicle.

• Never leave your dog in a hot car. If it is 30 degrees outside it is even hotter in the car. Even if you have the windows open you are still putting your dog at risk of heat stroke.
• Leave your pets at home if you know you can’t bring them with you when you leave the car.

7) Keep your dog’s hair long to provide a cooling mechanism in the summer. Do not shave it down.

•  A dog’s coat is designed to keep him or her cool during the summer and warm in the winter. By shaving your pet you will interfere with his or her natural temperature regulation.
• Shaving your dog’s hair down can actually lead to sunburn since the hair will no longer provide a barrier to the sun.

By keeping these tips in mind and being prepared before you spend time outdoors with your dog you will be able to enjoy your time out in the sun knowing you have done your part to help keep your dog safe.

The post How to Prevent Heat Related Illnesses in Dogs appeared first on Good Heels Dog Walking.

Ways to Prepare Your Dog for the Dog Park:

Know your Dog

• Understand how dogs communicate through body language. You need to have a good understanding of how your dog and other dogs signal that they are happy, playful, stressed, fearful or angry.
• Know what types of dogs your dog gets along with, is happy around or stressed around. If you have a small dog they may be fearful of larger dogs so be aware of this and avoid parks that do not have a separate small dog area.
• Know if your dog is stressful around a group of dogs.
• Know how your dog reacts around people touching him. At the dog park there may be lots of people trying to pat your dog and if he doesn’t like it or needs time to build up people’s trust before they can touch him then you need to be aware of this and be ready to tell people not to pat your dog or you should avoid the dog park as to not have a stressful situation occur.
• Be aware if your dog has any fears of specific types of people.
• Not all dogs like socializing with other dogs. It is important that your dog is friendly and likes socializing with other dogs if they are going to the dog park.

Make sure your dog has a valid city license and ID tag

• Your dog must wear a city license on his or her collar as per city regulations.
• City employees often check parks to make sure all dogs have a valid license.
• This is also useful for identification and return home if your dog runs away or is lost.

 Make sure your dog is up to date on all vaccinations

• For new puppies they must be finished their full course of puppy vaccinations before attending a dog park.
• For any other dog make sure he or she is up to date on all vaccinations as recommended by your vet.
• If your dog is very young, recently ill or malnourished be sure to consult a vet prior to going to the dog park even after vaccinations as they may need to build an immunity.
• Your dog should be on flea medications.

Make sure you train your dog on basic obedience or seek help from a trainer

• Your dog should know and follow at least basic cues of sit, down, stay, come, off and leave it.
• Knowing basic obedience is important when a dog is off-leash so you are able to call them away from any dangerous or stressful situations.
• Do not go to a dog park unless you are confident you have control over your dog’s behaviours.

Socialize your dog with other dogs and humans

• If your dog is a new puppy and not socialized yet with other humans don’t make your dog park visit his or her first experience. Plan visits with people you know of both sexes, different sizes, different races, people in specific clothing, with certain objects such as umbrellas so that they are comfortable around anyone who may be in the park.
• Do not make the dog park your dog’s first interaction with other dogs either. Plan play dates with other dogs or sign your dog up for puppy socialization classes which are also great for teaching your dog proper play behaviour.

Know what appropriate and inappropriate play styles look like

• You need to know what appropriate and inappropriate play looks like so that if your dog is playing inappropriately or if another dog is playing inappropriately with your dog you can stop play.
• Proper play styles include: lateral movements, giving plenty of space, no body slamming, no biting of the neck or back of legs.
• Improper play styles include: dog always on top, humping, space invader, antagonizing of another dog, pinning, multiple dogs picking on one dog, excessive neck biting
• Signals that may result in a fight: nose to nose sniffing longer than 2 seconds, circling, mounting, multiple dogs approaching one dog.

Learn what to do incase of a fight

• Be aware of signs of stress and aggression in dogs.
• Know how to avoid a fight.
• Know what to do when a fight occurs.
• If a fight occurs: yell “hey” at the top of your lungs, clap your hands, throw water on the dogs, pull out the back legs of the instigator dog if the dogs do not stop fighting.
• DO NOT throw your hands in and grab a collar.

Get your dog used to other dogs in the neighbourhood

• Walk your dog regularly around the neighbourhood to meet other dogs. Take note of how he or she reacts to different breeds, sizes or sex of dogs. This will give you an idea of what types of dogs your dog is comfortable around or fearful around. This will be helpful so that when you see the dogs your dog may be fearful around at the dog park you may want to avoid the park until you know that your dog is comfortable around them.

Do a walk by the park so your dog is familiar with the surroundings

• Take your dog on leash to the park and walk the perimeter or along the fence so they can sniff and meet dogs but still be on a leash with you incase there is any fear or hesitation.

Start your dog out at the park slowly

• Go to the park for the first time on a quiet day when there is only a few dogs that are relatively your dog’s size and a breed you know he or she is normally comfortable around.
• Avoid evenings and weekends at first as they tend to be busier
• Start in the small dog area if available and your dog is small. If there is no separate small dog area in the park and there is only large dogs when you go, you may want to come back another time

Choose the parks you decide to go to wisely

• Look for parks with a small dog / big dog separator if needed.
• If you are not 100% confident in your dog’s training choose a park with a fence.
• Look for parks with a separate entrance and exit and do not have 90 degree angles so your dog cannot be cornered by another dog.
• Avoid parks next to busy roads unless your dog knows to stay away.
• Look for parks with shaded areas, water and space to run around.
• Make sure the park is well lit if you plan to go at night.

Observe the dogs before entering

• Observe the dogs that are at the park before you go, if the dogs appear to be too aggressive come back another time
• Look for dogs that are around your dog’s size. If they are all larger and dominant come back another time.

Keep visits short in the beginning

• Start with a short visit maximum 20 minutes and build up the time spent each time in the park based on your dog’s comfort level.

Exercise your dog prior to going to the dog park

• If you walk your dog prior to the park they will burn off some energy and will be less excited when they get to the park.
• An excited dog may elicit attention and aggression of other dogs who may not like overly excited younger dogs and this may lead to a fight

Etiquette and Safety When at the Dog Park

Now that your dog is ready to try out the dog park it is important to know what to keep in mind and look out for when you are there.

Keep an eye on your own dog at all times

• You must keep a watch on your dog and know where he or she is at all times. You want to make sure he or she is playing appropriately.
• You want to watch out for any signs of stressful or dangerous situations.
• Make sure your dog isn’t eating anything like leftover pieces of toys, other dogs’ feces, drinking puddle water or anything else that may be on the ground.
• Be aware of signs that your dog has had enough and is ready to go.

Pick up after your dog

• Always watch out for when your dog eliminates and pick it up immediately.

Avoid fights and stressful situations

• If you see any signs that a fight may occur call your dog away immediately.
• If your dog shows signs of fear you should take him or her out of the situation in the chance he or she may have a negative experience.

 Practise the “come” cue several times in the park

• Call your dog to “come” to you at the dog park and reward with treats multiple times during play so that when you actually leave he or she does not associate being called to “come” as a negative thing out of punishment for being bad and therefore having to leave the park. When you do call your dog to leave the park make sure you reward him or her for coming with treats as well.
• Practising “come” is also important so that you are confident that if you do need to call your dog away from a stressful or dangerous situation that he or she will “come” on cue.

Keep toys at home

• If you know your dog has a possessive tendency towards toys do not bring them with you to the park as that will potentially cause a fight with another dog.
• You should also avoid the park if other dogs are playing with a ball or other toy if you know your dog is also possessive of other dogs’ toys as well.

Keep an eye on your dog’s water intake

• Make sure you bring water with you if the park does not have a water station available.
• Offer your dog water regularly during your time at the park.

Remain calm

• Dogs read their owner’s emotions. If you are anxious when a group of dogs come up to sniff your puppy for the first time at the park, your dog will also become nervous. It is normal for a group of dogs at the park to want to welcome and sniff out a new dog at the park. Do not overreact and stress out before there is anything to stress over.

Let other dog owners know your dog is new to the dog park

• If other owners know your dog is new to the park they will likely keep a better eye out on their dogs and make sure they play nicely with yours.

Dog Park Suitability

Even though you may think your dog will enjoy the dog park and want to take him or her there, not all dogs are suitable for the dog park. Outlined below are qualities of dogs that do well and enjoy dog parks as well as a list of dogs who should avoid the dog park.

Dogs Who Enjoy the Dog Park:

• Dogs who are confident
• Dogs who are energetic
• Dogs who are playful and friendly
• Dogs who play nicely with other dogs

Dogs Who Should Avoid the Dog Park:

• Female dogs in heat
• Any unaltered dogs over the age of 6 months (it may start a fight between intact and neutered males especially if a female in heat is around)
• Aggressive dogs
• Sick dogs
• Reactive dogs or fearful dogs
• Unvaccinated dogs
• Young puppies
• Senior dogs

The post How to Prepare Your Dog for the Dog Park appeared first on Good Heels Dog Walking.

Why is it Important for Humans to Understand How Dogs Communicate?

It is important for us as humans to understand how dogs communicate with each other so that we can interpret their body language and prevent dangerous or fearful situations from occurring.

It also allows us to become aware of things that make our dogs happy, playful, angry or fearful. Being able to understand a dog’s body language helps us to build stronger bonds in our relationships with our dogs.

Understanding a Dog’s Emotions Through Body Language

Friendly Dog

Let’s first examine how friendly dogs may appear. Friendly dogs seeks affection. They are socially attracted to people and other dogs. Their tails wag slowly and playfully. They present with relaxed mouths, relaxed eyes, ears back and relaxed bodies. A friendly, playful dog would signal that he or she wants to play using bows and a bouncy behaviour. He or she may bum check to initiate play.

Non-Social Dog

A non-social dog, on the other hand, would not seek affection and would likely ignore humans or other dogs. His or her body would be very still. You would see relatively little tail wag. He or she may look stressed.

Stressed Dog

If a dog is stressed you will notice that his or her tail is down, ears back and body posture is low. He or she may be panting rapidly, have dilated pupils and sweaty paws. Important stress signals to be aware of that may lead to aggression are yawning, lip licking, drooling, half-moon eye (white of eye appearing in moon shape), avoidance of eye contact, highly aroused state and raised hackles.

Fearful Dog

If a dog is stressed it may be because he is fearful of another dog, human or situation. If your dog is afraid he will likely have his tail between his legs , flattened ears, curled lips, dilated pupils, low body posture or raised hackles.

Signs of Potential Aggression in Dogs

A dog may move beyond the point of stress if whatever is causing the stress continues. Signs that the dog is on the verge of aggression are freezing, stiffness, direct start, subtle lip lift and growling.

Major indicators that a dog may bite are lip licking, freezing, direct start and half-moon eyes.

Dominant vs Submissive Personalities

Dominant dogs tend to have a stiff, tall body posture and lean forward. They show direct eye contact, ears are forward and alert. Dominant dogs tend to be persistent on nagging on another dog or dogs in the dog park. They also tend to be the dogs who jump on a hump other dogs.

In contrast, submissive dogs tend to have a low tail carriage, low body posture, and roll on their back. They have lowered ears, flattened foreheads and face licking.

It takes more than just simply understanding the body language of dogs to be able to know when to react to a situation. Just because your dog freezes and stares at another dog it doesn’t necessarily mean they are going to attack a dog. Also, a wagging tail doesn’t necessarily mean that a dog is happy and wants you to pat them. Yawning can mean your dog is tired but it can also mean your dog is stressed. You must take the context and situation into account when interpreting your dog’s body language.

The post How Do Dogs Communicate With Each Other? appeared first on Good Heels Dog Walking.

At Good Heels Dog Walking Services  safety is our number one priority when client’s dogs are in our care. An important aspect of keeping dogs safe is using proper equipment. By ensuring we select high quality, proper fitting equipment that is appropriate for each individual dog we can maintain a high level of control while minimizing the risk of injury or escape and keeping the dog comfortable during the walk.

The following is a list of equipment we use during our walks and explanations as to why we use them.

Good Heels Dog Walking Equipment Essentials:

1) Safety Belt (Waist Harness)

Every dog walker wears a safety belt with each leash secured onto it with a carabiner. By attaching the dog to the waist as well as holding the leash securely in both hands it will reduce the chances of the dog getting away.

2) Classic Collar With ID Tag and Licence (Provided by the owner- an everyday essential)

All dogs must be licensed and wear a tag their collar as required by the city. We also require dogs to wear an ID tag with his or her name, address and phone number. Identification is important in case of an emergency so that the person who finds the dog can easily identify him or her and contact the owners. Tags should be secured to a properly fitted collar.

3) Martingale Collar

A Martingale Collar is useful for training and walking.  This collar must be accompanied by a classic collar. Martingale collars tighten a small amount when pressure is applied. There is a mechanical stop that limits the amount of tightening to prevent choking and prevents the collar from slipping off the dog’s head so dogs cannot escape from it.

*Exceptions: Small dogs have sensitive tracheas. Do not use a martingale collar for walking a small dog. For a dog with throat disease it may be safer to avoid using a collar (seek Vet advise).

4) Front Connection Harness

A front connection harness is a type of harness that allows you to clip the leash to the centre of the front of the dog’s chest. This is useful to prevent the dog from using his body weight to pull you. These harnesses are very effective in controlling dogs that are strong pullers.

5) Leash

A standard 6 foot leash is recommended for walking and training. This leash should be leather or nylon. We do not use, nor encourage the use of a retractable leash. Leashes are used to control the dog and keep him or her within a certain distance of the walker. Leashes come in a variety of widths and materials. The stronger/wider leash is used for a larger dog vs lighter /narrower leash for smaller dogs. The leash is attached to both the martingale collar and the front connection harness.

6) Treat Pouch & Natural Treats

An important part of every walk is positive reinforcement of good behaviours. We start every walk with a treat to warm the dog up to walking with us. We treat as a reward for many good behaviours throughout our time together including, sit, stay, down, eye contact and any special skill that the individual dog may know or be working on to reinforce that behaviour. The quality of the dog treats we give out is important to us. We select high quality all natural treats. We do not give treats to dogs with food allergies.

7) Water

It is very important to bring water on a walks to keep dogs hydrated. We always bring a water bottle and a water bowl on all our walks. Water is frequently offered to dogs. Home water bowls are filled as needed as the dogs will likely be very thirsty afterwards.

8) Poo Bags

This one is obvious… If one of our client dogs poops we scoop! We make sure we always have extra poo bags on us to clean up after our client’s dogs. One of our biggest pet peeves is people who do not pick up their dog’s poo. It is not only annoying for the person who steps in it but it can also cause health problems for the dogs who comes into contact with it. So please be sure to always pick up your dog’s poop!

Specialized Equipment for Reactive Dogs

1) Gentle Leader or Halti

These are both forms of head collars used as additional control for walking a reactive dog. The handler attaches a second leash to the head collar. This is used to assist the handler in getting the dog to look away from the other dog or whatever the dog is reacting to when the handler pulls gently on the leash. This is only used as necessary if the dog does not respond to  “watch me” or “look at me” cue which is used and rewarded as a replacement behaviour for the reactive behaviour. Once the dog looks away, the collar is released and he is always praised or rewarded with a treat.

2) Muzzle

A muzzle should only be used for short duration of time as it limits the dog’s ability to pant, drink or eat. It should not be used to punish behaviour ie. barking or chewing. Muzzles are appropriate in certain situations. They are important equipment to use in an emergency situation in which a dog is injured and may be more likely to bite another dog due to severe pain or fear. A muzzle may also be necessary in a threatening situation in which a dog has a history of biting another dog or person. This behaviour must be dealt with by a specialist but in any situation of worry it is best to muzzle the dog to prevent reoccurrence. If a dog does not behave well for a groomer, a muzzle may be used as a safety precaution.

The post 8 Dog Walking Equipment Essentials appeared first on Good Heels Dog Walking.

Spending time outdoors in cold weather can not only be dangerous for humans but also for dogs. Two common cold related injuries affecting dogs are hypothermia and frostbite. It is important to know how to recognize these injuries and what to do when you have. It is also important to know what you can do to prevent them from occurring in the first place.

What is Frostbite:

Frostbite occurs when a dog is exposed to the cold for prolonged periods of time and tissues freeze. Most frequent areas affected are the scrotum, teats, ears, tails, and paws. Signs of frostbite include: scaling of the skin, leathery skin, ice crystals forming on the skin, whitened/waxy appearance to tissues, and fluid filled blisters.

What is Hypothermia:

Hypothermia occurs when core temperature drops to below 37 degrees Celsius (rectal thermometer reading). It occurs when a dog is exposed to the cold for too long. It is especially common when a dog is wet or if they become submerged in icy/cold water. Dogs that are small, short haired, young, senior, sick or injured are most vulnerable. A dog may die if hypothermia is left untreated. Signs of hypothermia include: shivering (when severity increases this will stop), frozen extremities, the dog is cold to the touch, stiff muscles, low respiratory rate, low pulse rate, low body temperature, fixed and dilated pupils, lethargy with eventual unconsciousness.

What to do when you think a dog has frostbite:

• Move him carefully inside or to a shelter and wrap him in a blanket.
• Warm him up slowly
• Monitor vital signs.
• Warm frozen parts up in warm water
• Contact a vet immediately!
• Thawing should be done by a vet as it is a very painful process and is best done under sedation.
• Make sure that you do not apply snow to affected area, do not rub the affected part or pop any blisters.

What to do if you think a dog has hypothermia:

• Move the dog to a shelter
• Dry the dog if he is wet.
• Warm him up as best you can with what you have including blankets, warm towels, hot water bottles, heat pads or just your own body heat
• Give him a warm liquid sugar mixture to drink- if conscious
• Seek medical attention from a vet immediately!

How to prevent Hypothermia & Frostbite:

• Keep wet pets inside and out of the cold
• Make sure you dry your dog completely after taking baths before going outside
• Limit the amount of time spent outdoors in cold weather especially for vulnerable dogs
• Dress your dog in Canine Clothing including jackets, sweater and boots
• Avoid walks off-leash in areas where there are bodies of water that may not be fully frozen

The post Hypothermia & Frostbite in Dogs: How to Recognize, Treat and Prevent appeared first on Good Heels Dog Walking.

Walking along the Vancouver seawall on a Saturday afternoon in December, you spot a man walking with a pug who is wearing a winter jacket and snow boots. You whisper “awww” out loud, but think to yourself “I bet his girlfriend made him dress the dog like that, poor dog, I bet he hates wearing that!” I’m sure there are those of you that play the role of either person in this scenario, either you use canine clothing or you don’t.

For those of you that dress your dog, is there a reason for it or do you just like the way it looks? I’m sure a lot of people dress dogs for fashion reasons but for many it is for the safety and comfort of their furry friend.

Bundling your dog up for the winter

Although Vancouver remains relatively mild throughout the winter months there is always the odd day that it is very cold putting not only you but also your dog at risk of cold related illnesses including frostbite or hypothermia. Warm clothing such as a sweater or jacket can beneficial for your dog by keeping them warm and protected from the cold so that they are able to withstand it longer. Boots are another item of clothing that can protect your dog during the winter months.

Protecting your dog’s delicate paws

Boots not only help to keep the paws warm and protect them from frostbite, they also protect the paw pads from road salt. Road salt can get stuck in between your dog’s toes and chap the paw pads. Prolonged contact can lead to serious chemical burns on the paws. If your dog is unwilling to wear boots then make sure you rinse off his paws and give him a good dry down to make sure all the salt is out, keeping in mind to check between the cracks. Not only is it damaging to dogs paws, the dog may try to chew at his paws and now the chemicals are in his mouth leading to other problems. So next time you see a dog wearing boots you will regard the owner as being a good owner and looking out for their dog’s needs. Winter isn’t the only time a dog can wear clothing with a purpose.

Doggie rain jackets are made for Vancouver weather!

As Vancouverites we are all too familiar with the rain. With rain comes a wet dog. Being a dog owner you can’t make the excuse to not take your dog for a walk when it’s a rainy day because you likely will make that excuse every day. Your dog needs exercise everyday so not going outside is not an option. 

Dressing your dog can save you time!

Think about having to towel dry a standard size golden doodle or any other large, long hair breed dog three or more times a day after taking them out in the rain. If you could save some time because most of his body is kept dry with a rain jacket, would that not make your life easier? Think about the times when your dog runs around and splashes mud up all over himself and you have to now spend an hour bathing, drying and brushing him. I bet that yellow rain jacket is looking even better now!

Putting looks aside, a lot of dogs hate being wet. A rain jacket may not only protect your dog from getting wet but may keep him happier and better behaved on your walk.

Not all dogs will be comfortable in canine clothing

All dogs are different. If  your dog seems reluctant to wear an article of clothing and makes a fuss or appears to be walking awkwardly because of it (as you can see with this poor pup), don’t force it. Cutting down the time you spend outside in the bad weather is likely the better option over creating a negative experience for him.

A dog’s needs vary depending on the breed

Keep in mind the breed of dog. Large, long haired breeds like German Shepherds or Huskies can probably get away with colder weather longer unless of course they are young, old or suffer from arthritis.  In those cases you would want to limit their time outdoors. Small, short haired dogs would likely benefit well from winter clothing (if tolerated) to allow them to enjoy the outdoors longer with less risk of a cold related illness. 

If you haven’t already been dressing your dog , I may now have opened your mind up to the idea of using canine clothing for a means of protecting your dog in bad weather or just simply saving you some grooming time. In the end, it’s your decision whether or not you decide to dress your canine in sensible clothing. As for top hats, bow ties and dresses, well that’s a whole other story! I’ll let you be the judge!

The post Canine Clothing: A Fashion Statement or a Sensible Purchase? appeared first on Good Heels Dog Walking.